Sweet Rolls in Salado

I cannot take credit for this recipe as it’s a Meyer family specialty.  Those Meyers are darn good bakers…and builders…and artists…and just darn great people in general.  They were generous to share this recipe and, in between turkey, pie, and shopping, I managed to make these over Thanksgiving in Salado, Texas.  Holidays in Texas are always relaxing.  They’re a break from the cold and a definite change of scenery – full of live oaks, prickly pear cacti, and giant bronze stars hung over garages and front doors.  The people in Salado almost always wave, say ‘hello’, or tip their hat when they pass by.  The downtown is full of antique stores, tea rooms, local art, and a sweet old bridge that’s always lit up in white Christmas lights.  It’s almost impossible not to love Salado, just like it’s almost impossible not to love cinnamon rolls.  In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever heard anyone say they don’t love, or at least LIKE, cinnamon rolls.  Millie loves cinnamon rolls, but she wasn’t allowed to have one.  This made her so very sad….

Honestly, if I did hear someone say they didn’t like cinnamon rolls, I would dare them to try one bite of these (if they still didn’t like cinnamon rolls, I’d call them crazy and then I’d eat the rest of their cinnamon roll).

I tried an experiment with the filling, using brown sugar and cinnamon on half of the batch and sugar and cinnamon on the other.  No one could tell much of a difference, so use whatever you have.  This makes 20 fairly large rolls, so cut them smaller if you’d like more.

Scald 2 cups of milk, add 1/2 cup of butter, 1/2 cup of sugar, and 3 tsp. salt.

Let this cool to about 110 degrees and add 2 packages or 2 tbsp. of yeast.

Add three eggs, 2 cups of whole wheat flour (see, they are kinda healthy!), and up to 5 cups of white flour.

Knead until smooth and let rise until doubled in size (2 to 3 hours).

Punch down and rise again.  I did this second rise overnight in the fridge and it worked out just fine.

Cut the dough in half and roll out each half into a large rectangle.  Generously spread softened butter on the dough and sprinkle brown sugar (or just white sugar) and cinnamon over the butter.  I didn’t measure this part, but I could have doubled the amount I used.  Next time, I’d put a thick layer of about 1/4 inch of sugar.

Starting at a small end of the rectangle, roll the dough into a long tube.  Cut the dough into 1″ to 1 1/2″ rounds and place on a buttered baking sheet.  Bake at 350 degrees for 10-15 minutes.

For the icing, I absolutely love this cream cheese recipe.  Combine one 8 ounce softened block of cream cheese, one stick (1/2 cup) of butter and a teaspoon of vanilla.  Mix in 3 to 4 cups of powdered sugar to taste.

 

All-American French Toast

Growing up, I only knew how to “cook” a few basic things.  I put those quotes around cook because I certainly wouldn’t call any of these things, or at least the way I made them growing up, “cooking.”  My staples were grilled cheese, mac n’ cheese, spaghetti, cinnamon toast, and french toast.  Yes, I am counting cinnamon toast as something I cooked because, well, I ate it a lot and I had it down to an exact science….toast the bread, slather it in Country Crock, sprinkle the cinnamon first, then sprinkle sugar over all of the cinnamony spots, add a glass of super-chocolaty chocolate milk, enjoy as a late-night snack while watching M.A.S.H. or as a Saturday morning “breakfast” watching Hanna Barbera cartoons (Captain Caveman was my favorite).

 

I learned how to make french toast from my Grandma.  We used to play card games and board games all night…Yahtzee, Crazy Eights, Uno, Gin Rummy, Spoons, Pig (just like Spoons except you put your finger on your nose when you get four-of-a-kind), Speed (a crazy cool game of solitaire where everyone can play off of the aces in the middle.  My Grandma has always been the best at this!) and Kings in the Corner.  We sat at that dining room table all night long playing games.  In the morning, that table was cleared of all the cards, dice, tiny pencils, and spoons to make way for butter, syrup, and stacks of french toast.  I can’t remember the exact morning that she taught me how to actually make french toast, but I remember thinking how cool it was that eggs, milk, and cinnamon could make plain old white bread taste so darn good.  This new recipe from America’s Test Kitchen truly revolutionized my french toast.  Adding flour to the mix makes a batter that coats the bread without making it soggy.  If you have some time to make and use either one of breads from my previous posts, challah or brioche, this french toast will seriously knock your socks off! 

French Toast  for 4– America’s Test Kitchen

2 large eggs
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 1/2 cup milk
4 teaspoons vanilla extract                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             1 teaspoon cinnamon and a pinch of nutmeg (optional)
2-4 tablespoons sugar (I opted for less here and I think this could even be left out if you were using brioche)
2/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
8-10 slices challah or brioche, ¾ inch thick,
or 12-16 slices day-old high-quality sandwich bread
Unsalted butter for frying
(1 tablespoon per batch)
Heat a 10 or 12 inch skillet over medium heat. Meanwhile, beat the eggs lightly in a shallow pan or pie plate; whisk in the melted butter, then the milk and vanilla, and finally the cinnamon/nutmeg, sugar, flour and salt, continuing to whisk until smooth. Soak the bread without over saturating, about 40 seconds per side for challah/brioche or 30 seconds per side for sandwich bread. Pick up the bread and allow the excess batter to drip off; repeat with the remaining slices.
Swirl 1 tablespoon butter in the hot skillet. Transfer the prepared bread to the skillet in a single layer; cook until golden brown, about 1 minute 45 seconds on the first side and 1 minute on the second. Serve the French toast immediately or keep it warm in a 200 degree oven. Continue, adding 1 tablespoon butter to the skillet for each new batch.

 

Challah!!

In looking back at the baking of this challah bread, I realized I knew nothing about it, other than the fact that it made darn good french toast.  Which is certainly enough information to bake it, but I knew there was more to this little loaf.  I read up on the history of challah and found that two loaves are blessed during the three Sabbath meals, and two holiday meals, to symbolize the two portions of manna that came from Heaven during the Israelites’ Exodus from Egypt.  Some sites said the three braids of challah symbolize truth, peace, and justice.  Other sites said the braids represent arms intertwined and symbolize love.  I am actually glad I didn’t know any of this until after I made my first two loaves of challah.  I was already nervous enough about three risings in my notoriously cold kitchen (which I found out ultimately takes longer, but leads to a much more developed flavor).   I had to braid and rebraid this bread three times and I still don’t think it turned out exactly right (there’s a big hump there at the very beginning that bothers me!).  I was paranoid about overbaking and overbrowning and it was truly torture to let these things cool off before cutting into them (which is the case with everything I bake!).  Knowing that meaningful history behind the bread would have made me even more nervous…to know my truth hunk of challah was bigger than my peace hunk would’ve probably led to at least two more rebraids.  Yet, after all my worries, I think my challah turned out beautiful AND it tasted delicious AND it made for some darn fine french toast!  I love everything about this bread, especially its history, and I can’t wait to make it again (neither can Walter…dogs love challah, too)!

Challah– from Smitten Kitchen/adapted from Joan Nathan

The secrets to good challah are simple: Use two coats of egg wash to get that laquer-like crust and don’t overbake it. Joan Nathan, who this recipe is adapted from, adds that three risings always makes for the tastiest loaves, even better if one of them is slowed down in the fridge.

Time: about 1 hour, plus 2 1/2 hours’ rising (way more if your kitchen is cold!)
Yield: 2 loaves

1 1/2 packages active dry yeast (1 1/2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon plus 1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup olive or vegetable oil, plus more for greasing the bowl (I used butter for the bowl)
5 large eggs
1 tablespoon salt
8 to 8 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup raisins per challah, if using, plumped in hot water and drained
Poppy or sesame seeds for sprinkling (optional)

1. In a large bowl, dissolve yeast and 1 tablespoon sugar in 1 3/4 cups lukewarm water.

2. Whisk oil into yeast, then beat in 4 eggs, one at a time, with remaining sugar and salt. Gradually add flour. When dough holds together, it is ready for kneading. (You can also use a mixer with a dough hook for both mixing and kneading, but be careful if using a standard size KitchenAid–it’s a bit much for it, though it can be done.)

3. Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Clean out bowl and grease it, then return dough to bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place for 1 hour, until almost doubled in size. Dough may also rise in an oven that has been warmed to 150 degrees then turned off. Punch down dough, cover and let rise again in a warm place for another half-hour.

4. At this point, you can knead the raisins into the challah, if you’re using them, before forming the loaves. To make a 6-braid challah, either straight or circular, take half the dough and form it into 6 balls. With your hands, roll each ball into a strand about 12 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide. Place the 6 in a row, parallel to one another. Pinch the tops of the strands together. Move the outside right strand over 2 strands. Then take the second strand from the left and move it to the far right. Take the outside left strand and move it over 2. Move second strand from the right over to the far left. Start over with the outside right strand. Continue this until all strands are braided. For a straight loaf, tuck ends underneath. For a circular loaf, twist into a circle, pinching ends together. Make a second loaf the same way. Place braided loaves on a greased cookie sheet with at least 2 inches in between.

5. Beat remaining egg and brush it on loaves. Either freeze breads or let rise another hour.

6. If baking immediately, preheat oven to 375 degrees and brush loaves again. Sprinkle bread with seeds, if using. If freezing, remove from freezer 5 hours before baking.

7. Bake in middle of oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until golden. (If you have an instant read thermometer, you can take it out when it hits an internal temperature of 190 degrees.) Cool loaves on a rack.

Note: Any of the three risings can be done in the fridge or a cold kitchen for a few hours, for more deeply-developed flavor. When you’re ready to work with it again, bring it back to room temperature before moving onto the next step.

Round or straight braid? Raisins or skip them? Straight loaves of braided challah are eaten throughout the year–typically on the Sabbath–round challahs, often studded with raisins, are served for the New Year and the other High Holidays that follow.

 

The Mo’ Carb Diet – Brioche

Well, it’s 12:18AM and I just took two loaves of bread out of the oven.  The whole house smells delicious and it’s taking everything in me not to rip off a big chunk of that warm bread right now!!!!!!!!!!!  Ok, I just tasted it…it’s real good.  I have never understood the no-carb concept.  I think it’s downright criminal to remove every bit of corkscrew pasta, fluffy jasmine rice, or warm fresh-baked bread from our diet.  Don’t even get me started on the desserts!!  Baking bread makes me feel like a REAL baker.  Kneading is therapeutic (although I am a big ol’ cheater and use my stand mixer as much as possible…I still knead for the last few minutes).  Watching the yeast work its magic when the dough doubles in size is like an in-home science experiment.  The results of this experiment are conclusively tasty.  The bread is brioche, which is really more of a dessert bread in my mind.  Well, I can make anything into a dessert, but this eggy, sweet bread is great with a little butter and honey and it makes the most unbelievable french toast you’ll ever have.

Brioche – Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything

4 cups all purpose flour, plus more as needed

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoon dry active yeast

8 tablespoons (1 stick) of cold unsalted butter cut into chunks, plus softened butter for greasing pans

3 eggs

1 egg yolk

1/2 milk, plus 2 tablespoons

1/3 cup water

Combine the flour, salt, sugar and yeast in a food processor and mix for 5 seconds.  Add the cold butter and whole eggs and process for 10 seconds.  With the machine running, pour the 1/2 cup of milk and 1/3 cup of water through the feed tube.  Process another 30 seconds.  The dough should be really sticky, almost like a batter.  If it is too dry, add water one tablespoon at a time and process for 5 to 10 seconds for each addition.  Grease a large bowl with softened butter and transfer dough into it.  Cover and let rise until doubled, at least 2 to 3 hours.  Punch down the dough and divide it into two loaves.

To make each loaf, form the dough into a rectangle with the heel of your hand on a very lightly floured surface.  Fold over the long sides of the rectangle to the middle and pinch the seam closed tightly.  Fold under the ends of the loaf and press it gently into the pan using the back of your hand.  Place each loaf in a buttered 8 x 4-inch or 9 x 5-inch pan.  Cover and let rise for one hour.

Preheat oven to 400°.  Mix the egg yolk with the remaining 2 tablespoons of milk and brush the top of the loaves.  Bake the brioche for 30 minutes, or until nicely browned.  When done, the bottom should sound hollow when you tap it and the interior temperature should be at least 190°.

 

The way of the Babka

Until about a year ago, I had only heard of Babka from the Chocolate vs. Cinnamon episode of Seinfeld.  It was after a long day of shopping for some ski duds with my friend Holly that I met…the Chocolate Babka (or Bobka, as Brian so sweetly spelled it).  We stopped at Dean & Deluca and it was my first time checking out all of the salsas, cheeses, sauces, and breads.  It was HEAVEN!  This stuff  may be ordinary for some of you, but we lived in a town where you were lucky to find more than just white bread and American cheese.

Ok, I’m exaggerating a little, but there weren’t a lot of options…Wal-Mart and two grocery stores.  Neither of which had anything resembling Chocolate Babka.  So Holly said we should split a loaf and we sat to have some coffee and my first slice of Babka.

I’m capitalizing Babka because it deserves it…really.  If you haven’t tried it, be prepared to become a Babka addict.   It’s really everything amazing about baked goods all wrapped and twisted up into one loaf of love….sweet, sweet love.  If you want to make it, you have to love it….a lot!  It’s not easy.  It takes a ton of ingredients.  A whole lotta mixing, kneading, rising, rolling, filling, twisting, resting and baking.  But, good lord, it is completely worth it!  Thank you, Holly, for showing me the way of the Babka.

Chocolate Babka

Martha Stewart

I made one large loaf and two mini loaves.  You could definitely make two large loaves.  Also, my measurements are a little weird because I halved her recipe.  Don’t laugh at my math.

¾ cup warm milk, 110 degrees

½ tablespoon active dry yeast (or one ¼ ounce package)
½ cup plus 6 tablespoons of sugar (and a pinch for the yeast)
2 whole large eggs, room temperature
1 large egg yolk, room temperature
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and rolling
½ teaspoon salt
1 ¾ sticks (14 tablespoons) of unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, room temperature, plus more for bowl and loaf pans
1 pound (16 ounces) semisweet chocolate, very finely chopped (if you have food processor, for the love of all    things holy, use it! Otherwise, you’ll be chopping for a solid half-hour, but you’ll get a darn good arm workout.)
1 ¼ tablespoons ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon heavy cream
Streusel topping (recipe follows)

1. Warm cold milk for about 25 seconds in a microwave safe bowl.  Sprinkle yeast and pinch of sugar over milk; let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

2. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together 6 tablespoons of sugar, 1 egg, and egg yolk. Add yeast mixture to egg mixture, and whisk to combine.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine flour and salt. Add egg mixture, and beat on low speed until almost all the flour is incorporated, about 30 seconds. Change to the dough hook. Add 1 stick of butter, and beat until flour mixture and butter are completely incorporated, and a smooth, soft dough that’s slightly sticky when squeezed is formed, about 10 minutes.

4. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and knead a few turns until smooth. Butter a large bowl. Place dough in bowl, and turn to coat. Cover tightly. Set aside in a warm place to rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

5. Place chocolate, remaining ½ cup sugar, and cinnamon in a large bowl, and stir to combine. Using two knives or a pastry cutter, cut in remaining 3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) butter until well combined; set filling aside.

6. Generously butter one 9-by-5-by-2 3/4-inch loaf pans and two mini loaf pans; line them with parchment paper. Beat remaining egg with 1 tablespoon cream; set egg wash aside. Punch back the dough, and transfer to a clean surface. Let rest 5 minutes. Cut in half, then cut ONE half in half. Keep 2 small pieces covered with plastic wrap while working with the large half. On a generously floured surface, roll dough out into a 16-inch square; it should be 1/8 inch thick.

7. Brush edges with reserved egg wash. Crumble a little less than 1/2 of the reserved chocolate filling evenly over dough, leaving a 1/4-inch border. Roll dough up tightly like a jelly roll. Pinch ends together to seal. Twist 5 or 6 turns along the entire length of the roll. Brush top of roll with egg wash. Carefully crumble 2 tablespoons filling over the left half of the roll, being careful not to let mixture slide off. Fold right half of the roll on top of the coated left half. Fold ends under and pinch to seal. Twist roll 2 turns, and fit into prepared pan. Repeat with the remaining 2 pieces of dough and remaining filling.

8. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Brush the top of each loaf with egg wash. Crumble streusel topping over each loaf. Loosely cover each pan with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm place 20 to 30 minutes.

9. Bake loaves, rotating halfway through, until golden, about 55 minutes. Lower oven temperature to 325 degrees and bake until Babkas are deep golden, 15 to 20 minutes more. Remove from oven, and transfer to wire racks until cool. Remove from pans; serve. Babkas freeze well for up to 1 month.

Streusel Topping

Makes more than you’ll need.  Save it in the freezer for the next time!

¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
½ cup all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons ( ¾ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

In a large bowl, combine sugar, flour, and butter. Using a fork, stir until fully combined with clumps ranging in size from crumbs to 1 inch.